Yard Signs

Start with a new, sharp blade. A dull blade tears coroplast, leaves a ragged edge, and is how cuts go wrong. Swap the blade the moment it starts to drag.

Measure the finished size and mark the cut line on the BACK of the sign, at both ends. Mark the back so no marks show on the print.

Sign flat on a clean table. Put a metal straight edge on the line and hold it down firmly, fingers well back from the cut path.

Run the blade along the straight edge in light, steady passes: two or three passes cut clean through. One hard push crushes the flutes and wanders off the line.

Cutting along the flutes (with the channels) is the easy direction; the blade wants to follow them, so keep it on your line. Across the flutes takes one more pass and a steadier hand.

Measure the cut sign before it goes out. Clean up a rough edge with one light pass.

The sign’s flutes must run vertically, or the stake has nothing to slide into. Check before the job leaves: the prongs go in the bottom edge.

Line the H-stake’s top prongs up with the flutes and slide them in fully, keeping the sign centered on the stake. Soft ground, this order is fine. Hard or dry ground, do step 3 first and slide the sign on after.

Set the stake points where the sign goes. Hold the prongs straight and put your foot on the stake’s middle bar, then push down with steady body weight. Never stomp, and never push on the sign itself: stomping bends stakes, and pushing the sign crushes flutes.

Step back to where people will read it from. Standing straight, facing the traffic, not twisted. Nudge it true before the ground settles.

Give it a gentle shake. Loose? Push the stake deeper or move to firmer ground. A sign that leans or spins today is on the ground tomorrow.